Blouse



Dec. 4, 1945.

M. SHOLDER BLOUSE Filed April 1, 1942 15' dzdzaler flaw/40 G/WM, a)? 55 Patented Dec. 4, 1945 BLOUSE Morris Sholder, Chicago, Ill., assignor to Form Fashion, Inc., Chicago, Ill., a corporation. of

Illinois Application April 1, 1942, Serial No. 437,171

3 Claims.

The present invention relates to blouses and is particularly concerned with the provision of a blouse which will not ride up on the wearers shoulders and which will stay tucked in at the waist when the arm is raised or swung forwardly or backwardly.

One of the problems met with in blouses to a greater extent than in longer garments is that blouses, being shorter and of less weight, do not have as great a tendency'to stay in place, particularly when the arm is raised. Additionally, even though a dress may ride up somewhat when the arm is raised, it will return to its original position when the arm islowered, while a blouse which rides up will pull out at least partially from where it is tucked in beneath the top of the skirt, shorts, orslacks with which it is worn. Then when the arm; is lowered, the blouse will not return to its original position, and when the arm is successively raised, the blouse is likely to be pulled farther and farther from beneath the waistband of the anchoring garment, until finally the wearer must tuck it back into place beneath the Waistband.

It is one of the objects of the present invention to provide an improved blouse which will not pull out from beneath the waistband of an anchoring arment.

An additional object is to provide a blouse of novel construction.

Still another object is to provide a novel blouse having the beforementioned features which is neat in appearance and which requires no gussets or other inset pieces at the point where the arm portion joins the front and back panels.

Yet another object. is to provide a novel blouse having the above features and which, in addition, appears on casual inspection to be cut in a conventional manner.

Still another object is to provide a novel pat tern or fabric blank for a blouse sleeve.

Other objects and advantages will become apparent from the following description of a preferred embodiment of my invention illustrated in the accompanying drawing in which similar characters of reference refer to similar parts throughout the several views.

In the drawing:

Fig. 1 is a front perspective view of a blouse embodying the present invention shown with one of the sleeves raised;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the righthand blouse sleeve shown detached from the body portion of the garment; and

Fig. 3 is a plan view of a pattern or sleeve blank for the sleeve shown in Fig. 2.

The blouse shown in the figures is. comprised of a pair of front panels l0, joined at their side edges to a back panel l2, these three panels being preferably connected at the top by a shoulder yoke M. The panels 10 and I2 are straight cut in the conventional manner, but the arm holes provided in this garment are considerably deeper than is usual, as may be seen in Fig. 1.

The sleeve proper indicated by the numeral I6 is straight out in the same manner as the front and back panels and, as may be seen in Fig. 1, each of the sleeves is stitched directly to the front and back panels around the entire circumference of the arm opening, with the underarm seam of the sleeve indicated by the numeral It in alignment with the side seam of the garment which joins the front and back panels.

Around the upper portion of the armhole opening, the sleeve is considerably gathered when stitched thereto to provide considerable fullness at the shoulder and preferably padding (not shown) supports this shoulder portion of the garment sleeve. As shown in Fig. 2', the upper portion of the circumference of the upper end of the sleeve is substantially an arc of a true circle, while the lower portion is cut so as to project nearly directly inwardly a considerable distance, in fact the lower portion is nearly the reverse complement of the upper portion. Thus, when the upper half of the circumference of the upper portion of the sleeve is stitched to the garment sleeve opening which is substantially vertical, the lower portion tends to project directly inwardly unless the sleeve is raised substantially into the position shown in Fig. 1.

With this arrangement, when the sleeve is in raised position, ample fullness is provided at the lower portion of the sleeve so that there is no tendency for the side of the blouse to be pulled upwardly.

In other words, as the arm is raised and lowered, the sleeve tends to pivot about an intermediate point approximately half-Way up the garment sleeve opening. Thus, the underarm portion of the sleeve willstraighten out, while the gathering over the shoulder will tend to absorb the additional fullness caused at the shoulder covering portion of the sleeve when the arm is raised, while when the arm is lowered, the additional fullness in the sleeve beneath the arm will be covered and therefore will be unnotice able.

The pattern from which the sleeve shown in Fig. 2 is cut is shown in Fig. 3. Fig. 3 may also be considered as the fabric blank from which the sleeve is made. As there shown, the upper portion of the sleeve which overlies the shoulder and which on the pattern is indicated by the numeral 20, is substantially semi-circular, although it should be noticed that at the side of the sleeve which is to be at the front of the garment, the arcuate portion 20 extends downwardly somewhat further than it does at the side of the sleeve which will be stitched to the back panel. The former of these two points is indicated by the numeral 22, while the end of the arcuate portion at the back is indicated by the numeral 24.

From the point 22 the remaining edge portion of the sleeve, which is stitched to the garment, sweeps through an arc outwardly and upwardly, while the similar edge portion of the sleeve which is secured to the back panel sweeps outwardly and downwardly. Further, it should be noted that the outwardly swept portion in front indicated by the numeral 25 is somewhat shorter than the similar portion 28 which is secured to the back panel.

From the ends of the outwardly swept portions 26 and 28, the sleeve is cut downwardly an inwardly, both at the front and back, and these edges of the sleeve, which are indicated by the numeral 30, are stitched together to form the underarm seam of the sleeve. At the lower end of the sleeve, 9, portion 32, set ofi by a dotted line, is folded over and stitched down to form the sleeve cuff.

With the blouse thus constructed I have found that the action of the sleeve is extremely free, both when the arm is raised and lowered, and also when swung forwardly and backwardly. The sleeve also hangs well without bunching beneath the arm and, because the sleeve is free to move both upwardly and downwardly, there is no tendency for the portion of the sleeve overlying the shoulder to bunch or ride up on the shoulder. It will be seen further that the invention accomplishes all of the objectives set out for it in an earlier portion of the specification.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and useful and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

'1. A garment comprising front and back panels stitched together to provide a deep, regularly curved armhole opening generally in one plane, and a sleeve formed from a piece of fabric having at one end a substantially semi-circular portion extending outwardly and a pair of generally triangular wing portions projecting outwardly at each side of the semi-circular portion and each having an edge extending generally radially of the semi-circular portion, the shaping and arrangement being such that when the other edges of the wing portions are stitched together the piece provides an upper sleeve portion generally in one plane adapted to match the upper armhole and a lower sleeve portion with a generally curved edge generally in another plane normally at a decided angle to the plane of the upper sleeve portion and distorted out of its normal plane for attachment to the lower armhole, both said sleeve portions being stitched directly to said armhole opening.

2. A garment comprising front and back panels stitched together to provide a deep, regularly curved armhole opening generally in one plane, and a sleeve formed from a piece of fabric having at one end a substantially semi-circular portion extending outwardly and a pair of generally triangular wing portions projecting outwardly at each side of the semi-circular portion and each having a curved edge of a length of the same order as the radius of the semi-circular portion and extending generally radially therefrom, the shaping and arrangement being such that when the other edges of the wing portions are stitched together the piece provides an upper sleeve portion generally in one plane stitched directly to the upper armhole and a lower sleeve portion with a generally curved edge generally in another plane normally at a decided angle to the plane of the upper sleeve portion and distorted out of its normal plane and stitched directly to the lower armhole.

3. A garment sleeve blank comprising a piece of fabric cut to provide a sleeve designed to be stitched directly to a regularly curved armhole of a garment, having at one end a substantially semi-circular portion extending outwardly thercfrom and inclined slightly toward the front of the sleeve, and a pair of generally triangular wing portions projecting outwardly at each side of the semi-circular piece, each such wing portion having a generally curved edge projecting approximately radially from the semi-circular portion and designed to be stitched directly to said armhole without folding of such wing portion, the edge intended to lie to the back of the sleeve making an obtuse angle with the semi-circular portion and being longer than the edge intended to lie to the front of the sleeve, this latter edge making a sharper angle with the semi-circular portion, the other edges of each of the wing portions being adapted to be stitched together to form a sleeve having an upper portion generally in one plane and a lower sleeve portion with a generally curved edge generally in another plane at a decided angle to the plane of the upper sleeve ortion.

MORRIS SHOLDER. 

